Best Answer: Reset CMOS. Be sure CMOS jumper is back to Normal position before powering on.
Try a bare minimum set up. NO FDD, HDD, CD drive and just 1 stick RAM. Bare set up should POST and be able to open BIOS Menu.
If still it won't start, try again w/ motherboard unscrewed from case and not touching any metal part.
If problem persists, motherboard could be defective.
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Re:Well guy, I must bow to you. I took everything appart, and I found out that there was a bent capacitor on the upper right corner of the board. That capacitor was bend when my DVD-Rom was inserted in its position (from waht I could see). Fortunately, I believe my Asus board came with a 3-year warranty so I'm get a RMA.
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Re:Hmm this is even weirder. I replaced the battery with a new one. It still doesn't work, but it goes a step further before stopping. Now I see the floppy disk kind of initializing (the LED goes on, and I hear the head moving). It didn't go that far before.
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Re:Reboot could be related. Still hard to say if it's mobo or PSU, but connecting another known good PSU will eliminate that possibility (hopefully the one you borrow is a decent one).
I've seen this happen with a mobo with a bad capacitor. It'll just get worse and worse and one day it won't POST at all.
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Re:I just thought about something. It has happened a few times (maybe 2-3 times top) that I would come back home and the computer had rebooted itself while I was away.
Do you think it could be related, would a low CMOS battery, or a bad PSU do something like that?
I'm gonna pick up a new battery during my lunch time and if that doesn't solve the problem, I'll pick up a new PS I guess, maybe it's the same as guy's problem.
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Re:Sounds like a PSU issue. I had the same problem; no POST but fans would be running and LEDs would be on. I would just hit the reset button and it would be fine for a few days then do the same. After a few months of doing that, the "hibernation state" would happen more frequently. Finally it got to the point where it would try to post and then go back into that state. I took wild educated guess and bought a new PSU for it. Luckily that solved my issue. Sorry for the long story, just thought I'd share my experience. Good luck.
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Re:Thanks for the recommendation. Tomorrow I'll stop at the store to buy a new battery, that will be a start. I don't believe it's a bad line because I forgot to mention that I'm newly connected to a UPS – a small one, but still a UPS. And the first time this problem happened, it was in my hometown, about 715km away, so I'm on a completely different power line company. Could be the power supply, you are right, it's not a True Power.
Do you think it could be something else than the PS or the mobo? Maybe I could borrow a PS from a friend at work. If that woudlnt fix the problem, I could assume then that the problem is the mobo. I don't think a broken CPU would react like that???
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Re:Originally posted by: guy
Could be a lot of things:
Could be a weak CMOS battery. They cost $2 at Office Depot or Radio Shack so if you haven't got a digital multimeter, just replace it. What the hell.
Could be the mobo is dying (usually a bad capacitor).
Could be a weak, bad, faulty PSU.
Could be a very good quality PSU that doesn't like the line voltage. Good quality ($50+) PSUs have line voltage detection. If the PSU sees conditions that would cause unstable voltage regulation, it won't fully power up. Could be your line voltage in the house is a little low sometimes. Once you POST it's fine though. A good quality UPS battery backup will solve that (one that does line conditioning).
Antec's are good PSUs, but 350 is a little light and assume this is NOT a True Power model? If it's just a plain jane Antec 350 it's better than your average PSU, but it's still a budget CPU. Fine for a regular desktop but not for a gaming system.
Consider an Antec True Power 380 or 430.
Next time this happens, turn off the kill switch on the back of the PSU for 1 minute (gives all the capacitors time to discharge) and then turn it back on and see if it fires up. Might be a workaround.
Hope this helps…
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Re:Could be a lot of things:
Could be a weak CMOS battery. They cost $2 at Office Depot or Radio Shack so if you haven't got a digital multimeter, just replace it. What the hell.
Could be the mobo is dying (usually a bad capacitor).
Could be a weak, bad, faulty PSU.
Could be a very good quality PSU that doesn't like the line voltage. Good quality ($50+) PSUs have line voltage detection. If the PSU sees conditions that would cause unstable voltage regulation, it won't fully power up. Could be your line voltage in the house is a little low sometimes. Once you POST it's fine though. A good quality UPS battery backup will solve that (one that does line conditioning).
Antec's are good PSUs, but 350 is a little light and assume this is NOT a True Power model? If it's just a plain jane Antec 350 it's better than your average PSU, but it's still a budget CPU. Fine for a regular desktop but not for a gaming system.
Consider an Antec True Power 380 or 430.
Next time this happens, turn off the kill switch on the back of the PSU for 1 minute (gives all the capacitors time to discharge) and then turn it back on and see if it fires up. Might be a workaround.
Hope this helps…
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