The heatsink / fan is not quiet. Anyone run fanless, with only the heatsink? The reason I ask is because the 92 mm intake fan on the Whisper is right above the CPU.

Otherwise, some small and easy to find quiet heatsink / fan combo should I use?

I is small because the CPU is a slocket and points sideways. Too big and blocks the slot.

Or a memory I can hack the 3 pin connector on the Intel fan? Or can I just get a new fan for it?

EDIT – see next post.

The reason I ask is because the Silent PC Roundup (http://www.silentpcreview.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=57&page=1) seems to say that a 5 V Intel heatsink/hack does quite well. No need to buy a Panaflo.

I think I should be OK with undervolting the stock 80 mm fan. (Not a great fan but better than my Aopen. Globe or something?) I just need to get more 4–>3 pin adapters. If it gets to me then I'll stick in a Panaflo or something, but I doubt it because the drives are actually louder. I'll also put in an undervolted Sunon 80 mm case fan.

Knowing what I know now I guess I could have modded my Aopen, but I figure the Whisper was only $45 anyway and seems like a better design that makes for easy undervolting of the 80 mm fan. I hear (pun intended) that the Antec TruePower is slightly quieter, but it was 60% more expensive. Dunno if it is easy to undervolt the 80 mm fan though. Anyone know?

As for the CPU, it definitely seems OK with a 7V retail fan.

Funny, my last CPU was all about overclocking. Just the opposite with this one.

I just finished setting up a 1.1A Celeron, OCed to 133FSB using the retail HSF, 7-volted. Max CPU temp whille running Prime95 was 44°C. Ambient temps here is about 75°F right now. THe heatsink is just barely warm down near the base of it.

If you want an even quieter solution you should look at a Thermalright SK-7 or SLK-800 with a 7-volted Panaflo L!A on it. That'll cost you another $34-40 though.

Even though it is quieter than my previous PSU, it's not WHISPER quiet.

I was almost tempted to unplug that fan completely and just add in a couple of 7V-hacked case fans.

With the 7V fan hack it's barely above room temp after some surfing and light Photoshop.

Now to run some OGR…

So I did the black to red trick and all is working fine.

BTW. Yellow is red, and black is black. Green is attached to nothing. Pic (http://www3.sympatico.ca/eug/TualatinFan.jpg)

yellow is rpm im prretty sure
black is ground (or negative…wahtver)
green must be pos

or look at a pinout example thing in your manual?
i konw mine has one

also you could if you wanted to chop off the 3pin connect it to molex
but its easier to buy a premade connector, and change the wires thatway

Thus I must have a fan of some sort. Until I can get a new QUIET AND SMALL heatsink fan combo, how do I low voltage hack the CPU fan? It's a green black and yellow cable, with a 3 pin connector. Or is it already low voltage?

I'm using an Enermax Whisper by the way, with the 92 intake fan of the PSU directly above the CPU.

Oh, and it's certainly a discover how loud my drives are. Well, they're fairly quiet, but now with the quiet Enermax they seem much louder. I'm almost tempted to go 'Cuda IV.

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Anyways I just noticed a bad system crash . it was overheating. This is more than a span of one month . So I check my heatsink clips which show that the worn .

Anyways I got more cooling cable tie pasta and gently hold it together now, ordering a new heatsink / fan like we had just wound speak.

I ring You think I damaged my processor right?
IT seems to work fine now.

Oh what do you recommend a one-slot heatsink / fan combo?

thanks ct

I accidentally ran a celeron 300a with 3.0V for about 45 seconds. Proir, it could reach 504MHz at 2.1V. Afterwards, I needed 2.1V just to reach 428.

Eric

Or better yet, install a temperature monitoring system (like Motherboard Monitor). If you have any doubts right now about proper CPU temperature, return to default until you get your new HS.

Just need to order a new heatsink fan combo…

You can use any PII coolers for your SlotA athlons.

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Case
Mobo
CPU
Heatsink/Fan
Video card
Memory
CDRW
Sound Card
Speakers
Mouse
Operating System

Come on . Enjoy me here .

mmmm…. I think I just soiled myself…

guy – Don't ask.

guy – the Audigy has been proved to have inferior sound in terms of clarity, especially in the front channels. Are you trying to remember Kryotech?

guy – there's actually roughly 8.5TB, since it's in RAID 0+1 (mirrored, then striped). I also applaud your efforts to calculate it all.
The Hercules GTXP was chosen because
1) One of the original requirements of the list was that it be already on or approaching the market
2) I wanted to use the Aardvark Direct Pro 24/96, but it didn't support DirectSound so it would be pretty much useless for games, however much I liked the supreme audible bliss
3) Comparable quality to the rest of the sound cards
4) It was advantageous in its own right – it now supports 6.1, and the breakout box is really convenient

BTW, I don't think Dan D'Agostino would have a lot of free time on his hands. Who's Nelson Pass?

chrisisbored – what's wrong with huge HDs? What if you wanted a copy of every game in existence installed? That would be a part of MY 'dream' gaming system.

Registered memory is not a waste. Do you know what it does? Let's see you try and run a system with 2 gigs of unregistered memory installed. And ECC is worth a lot if you want as few errors as possible.

Registered ECC RAM would be a waste…

You're not building a file server, or a database…

Really guys, think logical…

Athlon XP 1900+ -> O/C'ed to hell
EPoX 8KHA+
1GB TwinMOS PC2700 DDR SDRAM

Leadtek Winfast GeForce3 Ti500
Sony GDM-FW900 24" Trinitron (1920×1200 @ 85Hz) *spooge*

Plextor 24/10/40 CDRW
Kenwood 72X TrueX CDROM

Dual Promise FastTrak 100's
8X Western Digital 100GB Special Editions in RAID 0 *spooge again*

Philips Acoustic Edge 5.1
Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 Surround Sound

Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer 3.0
Microsoft Natural Keyboard Pro

Windows XP Professional

Sound Deadening Material all over the areas of the case.

Badass and virtually silent… that's the way to go

and mr helpful, why 3dfx?

The hercules game theater brings the sound quality of all of that stuff to a useless level. with unlimited money i'd hire nelson pass or dan d'agostino to design me a suitable sound card.

For 15 grand, here is what I'd build

Skeleton:
Antec SX1480B $600
Dual 2ghz PIV xeon procs 2x$750
Tyan Thunder i860 $700
4×512MB ECC RDRAM 4x$478

$4712

Storage:
Adaptec 3410S Quad channel scsi raid controller 64bit/66mhz $1000
4x Seagate cheetah X15-36LP 36GB Drives 3 in raid 0, one on onboard scsi controller for important files. 4x$540
Sanyo CRD BP5 24×10x40 SCSI CD-RW $189
Pioneer 305s slot load 10X DVD-ROM w/ SCSI interface $100

$3450

Network:
Netgear GA622T gigabit ethernet nic $120
Netgear FS509T 8 port switch $230

$350

Video:
nvidia gf3 ti500 $330
Sony GDM-FW900 $1800

$2130

Sound:
Hercules gaming theater XP $100 or Echo Audio Mia $180 (2ch only)
Sennheiser HD600 Headphones $350
Chu Moy pocket headphone amplifier $50

B&W DM 602 S2 $500 (main)
B&W DM 601 S2 $350 (surround)
B&W CC3 Center $300 (center)
SVSubwoofers 25-31PC 12" powered subwoofer $650
Denon AVR-3300 $750

$3050

Misc.
Herman Miller Aeron Chair
$700

Total: 14,392

Leaving 700 bucks left over for mouse, kb, software, cables.

Might be able to bring it down a few grand if AMD chips and DDR ram are used, who wants that though?

jt

Since I'll try to be somewhat realistic.

Epox 8kha+
XP 1900 (oced of course)
2x 512mb mushkin pc2400
maybe a 9gig x15 scsi drive for boot
another one for loading games and appz and such.
a whole buncha maxtor 60gig 7200rpm diamond max pluses in Raid-5
for case……gotta be that refridgerated one…forgot the name.

probably an audigy for sound hooked up to my 400w sony 5.1 reciever, with my Allisons in front and my Big ass old Klipsches in back. Need a center and Sub.

definately sony trinitron 21" CRT…..

what else what else……
optical Microsoft mouse……and MS keyboard too.
i like my intel pro100 NIC
eh…no more thinking

Sure.

I wonder how much the cables alone would cost…I heard they can be quite expensive…

I would buy dual Athlon MPs (high as they go)
Solid state drives
coupla 120 gig drivers in raid for storage…. etc.

Antec SX1440B /w PC P&C Turbo-Cool 600 Sun Ultra AXmp PSU

ATi Radeon All-In-Wonder 8500DV (primary) – to CRT display and receiver
3dfx Voodoo 5 5500 64MB PCI (secondary-display)
3dfx Voodoo 5 5500 64MB PCI (tertiary-display)

IBM 60GXP 60GB (the setup hard drive) ? master on channel 1

Pioneer 16X DVD Slot-Load ? slave on channel 1
Hewlett-Packard dvd100i 2.4X DVD-RW ? master on channel 2
Plextor 24×10x40x CD-RW ? slave on channel 2

(2) Qlogic SANblade 2300 PCI, PCI-X 64-bit/66MHz Fiber-Channel Host Bus Adapter ? connects to SANArray controllers

(2) Mylex SANArray Pro FF2 Fiber-Optic controller /w 512MB cache (244 devices) ? standalone, connects to HDs

(244) BiTMICRO E-Disk 73GB Solid-State storage drives (RAID 0+1) – <48ns access time, >400MBps sustained transfer rate
(31) Trimm FR8J-500x 8-bay Fiber-Channel rack-mount drive enclosure /w built in PSU

Hercules Game Theatre XP (to pre-amplifier)

3com 3C1000-T Gigabit NIC

Logitech Cordless Freedom Keyboard with DVD control
Microsoft Intellimouse Optical
fUnc sUrface 1030 mouse pad

Sony GDM-FW900 (primary)
Sony GDM-FW900 (secondary)
Sony GDM-FW900 (tertiary)

(2) Belkin 7-port USB self-powered hub

Act Labs Force RS Wheel
Act Labs Force RS Shifter
Act Labs Performance Pedals
Logitech Wingman Strike Force 3D Joystick
Logitech Wingman RumblePad

Microsoft Windows 2000 Professional

Boulder Model 2010 Pre-Amplifier ? to amplifiers
Krell Master Reference Amplifier (up to 8000W per channel) ? to Wilson WAMM towers and Center
Avalon Acoustics Sentinel Subwoofer Amplifier 2400W/channel ? to Wilson XS Subwoofer towers

Stewart Filmscreen StudioTek 130 118?x66? Fixed Flexible Screen
Runco Reflection VX-5c DLP Projector
Pioneer Elite Pro-720HD 64" Projection TV (for games and/or TV)

Denon AVR-5800 Receiver – video to TV or projector

(4) Wilson Audio WAMM Towers
(2) Wilson Audio WATCH Center
(2) Wilson Audio XS Subwoofer Towers

Transparent Cable PowerIsolator XL Noise Reducer power filter
Transparent Cable BNC-DB15 adapter
Harmonic Tech Magic Power Cord
Harmonic Tech AC Adapter Cable
Harmonic Tech Magic Link One XLR Interconnect
Harmonic Tech Magic Tweeter/Woofer Cable
Harmonic Tech Magic Digital One Digital Cable
Harmonic Tech Crystal S-Video Silver Cable
Harmonic Tech Crystal RGB (BNC) Cable
Harmonic Tech Crystal Component-Video Cable
Harmonic Tech Coaxial Cable

La-Z-Boy Embassy Black Leather with 2 motorized massagers and heated recliner

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I really appreciate it, Jonathan 977,503

As for the price, that sounds like a pretty good deal, unless they got you on shipping. (Heck, I just had half a pound of wires for 5 dollars shipped 2 day air for 10 dollars (15 total).)

2 Thermal AX7 Heatsinks with 2 YStech speed control fans
2 Artic Silver thermal grease compounds.
Is that bad or good?

The place I got my AX7 from (which I just installed a little while ago) was 29 dollars, but I like the place so I don't mind the slightly higher price. However he has the same YSTech fan for a dollar less than maxcooler, and maxcooler wants 2 dollars more for the Panaflo fan I got.

Oh yeah, and if you got the thermal compound free with the order, it's probably not real Arctic Silver, but some knockoff that has some silver content.

Panaflo @ Newegg (http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduct.asp?submit=manufactory&catalog=127&manufactory=1560&DEPA=1)

Panaflo @ Casemod.com (http://www.case-mod.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=28_29&products_id=67)

Come on, guy, do a little searching on your own. Do I need to install it for you to?

As for the fan to go with the heatsink, most places that sell the AX-7 offer it as a bare heatsink too, so you can pick the fan you want. There is a middle ground between the Panaflo L1A and Panaflo H1A, and it is (surprise) the Panaflo M1A. Otherwise, another great option is the adjustable-speed Enermax 80mm fan, which lets you dial up the speed you want, on the fly. Its range goes from pretty quiet to moderate, and if you have 12 fans already, it should blend in well.

As for a HSF, without a doubt, the best (and mid-priced too!) is the Thermalright AX-7. I have one on a T'Bird 1.4 @ 1.6+ and the idle temps are ~39c and 44c full load. I'm using a Panaflo HA1 (40cfm) and I can't even hear it over my Enermax PSU fan. My only gripe with the HA1 is that it doesn't have a speed (RPM) signal line. This posed me no problems, but some MB's need that signal to boot (some let you turn RPM monitoring off in the BIOS). Get the AX-7 and you will never regret it.

As for the memory type needed, the type of CPU (at least till the Hammer line comes out) does not determine the type of memory needed. The chipset used is what determines that, and you can get different chipsets for different CPU's which allow you to use several different memory types. The AMD line of course doesn't use RDRAM, so you have a choice between SDRAM and DDR SDRAM there, same with the P3/Celeron, or with the P4 you have those two as well as RDRAM. Technically there's no reason any of those CPU's couldn't be used with EDO memory, or 30pin SIMMS, there's just no reason for anybody to make a chipset or board design that would do that.

Getting something along the lines of an XP 1600+ (1.4GHz) would be a better idea, as the prices are about the same, but the XP runs cooler, and you get SSE with the XP line. There's really no reason to buy a t-bird unless you have an existing board that truly cannot run an XP.

As for the heatsink, I recommend the ThermalRight AX-7 with the fan of your choice. This heatsink utilizes an 80mm fan, and most online stores offer several fan options for it, based on your needs: quiet, average, or all-out cooling. If your case is generally well-cooled, then you can probably get away with a low-speed fan like a Panaflo L1A, although a 1.4 is the hottest CPU you can buy, so I'd recommend a faster,m albeit louder, fan, like a Panaflo H1A or a mid-speed Sunon.

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anyway, the heatsink is noisy fan – constant whirring sound — more than the normal sound 977 503 977 503 on the threads of the screws of the fan on the heatsink actually “screws” to borrow the fins of the heatsink, and not actually in the eye if everything . But I think its ok – as long as it stays there and the temps are ok .

anyway, can anyone recommend a quiet fan for Athlon CPU? thanks

My thoughts on quiet don't quite match those of guy, apparently . I find 36dB to be much too loud. Instead consider the SVC GC68 for $12.98 from SVC (http://www.svcompucycle.com), or the identical Galaxy Monster Cooler for $5.99 from Nexfan (http://www.nexfan.com/29/325.htm?181). Those two are rated at 28dBA — much, much quieter than 36dBA!

I agree this hs/f is very quiet. I used this in conjunction with a hard drive enclosure and now my server is whisper quite, I too forget sometimes when it is on.

If you transport your comp a lot, I'd suggest a Thermalright SK-6 (http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduct.asp?submit=manufactory&catalog=62&manufactory=1444&DEPA=1). Either order the bare HS and a quiet fan, or simply put an adjustable resistor in the power feed to control the speed of the "Delta Screamer". With the SK-6, you can replace the fan when it wears out, which you can't do with the Glaciator (as far as I know there are no replacement fans available).

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Or Im just trolling around? New to this . please help.

Rex

While fooling around…I connected the HSF to the 4 pin connector. The HSF has a 3 pin tail and so, I connected it via 3 to 4pin connector. While I was reading the manual of the PSU, my son decided to make a go at it.

So, we turned on the PSU back switch. The PSU did not turn on. As I felt a growing pain in my stomach seeing that my $229.00 PSU from PP&C fan is not rotating, I got even more worried if I messed up the PSU completely altogether.

That's why I want to know if its really a peril before I call PP&C. Again thanks a bunch for replying.

- Rex

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You do need a TIM no matter what. The stock heatsink should come with a little pad on the bottom of it, that's the TIM.

Athlon64s are cool runners, don't worry about the thermal grease and all unless you're interested in serious overclocking.

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Im going to use it for gaming (BF2, Fear, especially FPS games type) and DVD / video encoding etc.

So some CPU / MB / RAM a real good solid gaming system to get?

Ill are getting 7800GTX video card if that matters. Let me know the recommendations, like all experts for soon.

thx help

-to Vinman

Ya that 700 PS is alot, i think ill try the seasonic one , alot of people seem to like it.

So it that Asus MB and opteron 17x? or 4400×2? and what memory to get?

thx for the help and again that Spectre does look sweet.

I avoid Antec PSUs at all costs myself. If you want something really beastly to power your system check out the new Fortron (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817104015)

-Vinman

Personally I'd just one of these (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814130254) and call it a day.

Where to get that processor and MB? any idea on pricing?

Opteron 165 (overclock it. It'll stay stable at 175 speeds.)
DFI Lanparty UT Ultra-D
7800GTX (could you afford the 512MB version?)

So from that thread i can gather your on the Opteron side. So the 175 be the best bet then? I want to OC using heatsink and fan, nothing fancy like water etc.
I will get a single 7800gtx to start with prob add another down the road.

Ok ill be ordering that WD400kd i think then

Budget wise want to keep everything under 2k probably. I think that is feesible.

So that Asus board over the DFI LP expert one then?

Was thinking 2 gig (2 x 1gig sticks ?) whatever is going to run fast and stable (allowing stable OC )

Like i said box is mostly for Gaming (BF2, FEAR, etc) and DVD/video stuff and im running the Dell 2405 so would like to use this high res .

for my other ? like i said I wanted another monitor for my work laptop (dell 9100) so i could have bigger desktop and workarea (like i have now with this dell 2405 ) I was thinking one of the LCD/TV monitors 27-30 in maybe would work. This is for work stuff and probably watching TV on. I do DBA work so lots of terminal windows, IE, etc. programing. My concern would be how big can i get while its sitting on my desk in front of me before its just to big to comfortably look at.

Think thats it, reply in PM if ya want , if anyone else has any recommendations please feel free to chime in. I really want to order the computer stuff this week so it will be here by christmas so i can build the week im off.

thx
Vinman

-I was thinking the 4400×2 processor but have seen people saying now the opetron are better and cheaper so im not sure.-
See this thead (http://{$MySite}/messageview.aspx?catid=28&threadid=1733490&enterthread=y)

-I am going to use p180 case, not sure on ps yet.-
Well, my default recommendation is Seasonic but with the odd layout of the P180 you may want to look at something with slightly longer cables than the S12 series has. I'm buying one of these myself (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817159056), but really I need to know overclocking/SLI before I can really suggest anything.

-Need to make decision on MB/CPU/Memory. video card will be 7800 gtx. Im leaning towards that WD400 gig drive, i forget the model number. think that covers all the big parts.-
The WD4000KD (http://zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=101254) is one bitchin drive.

Budget and overclocking or not.

If you want SLI, overclocking, and one awesome board I'd suggest the Asus A8N32-SLI when some more places get it in stock, but expect to pay from 210-240 for one.

If you want non-SLI, some overclocking, and more affordable:
Epox EP-9NPA+ ULTRA (http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=246557)

For budget RAM/non-overclocking get a stick or two of these
PQI3200-1024SAL (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820141234)

The sweetes RAM made
Muskin Redline 1GB (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820146023)

-Ill reuse my keyboard, mouse, speakers etc. I have 16xDVD BENQ burner (external), i have Dell 2405 i picked up recently, liking that. So if you could enlighten me as to how i should build this thing out would appreciate it-
I don't understand what you mean. Don't expect to burn at 16x with an external drive.

-Also as another aside, im also wanting to get another big LCD type monitor to hook to my work laptop (dell 9100 with 128mb ATI vid). I do database work so i have lots of terminal windows, IE windows etc and would be nice to have more up and easier to read. Any recommendations on that? should i just get another dell 2405? or would a big 27+ inch LCD tv/monitor do the job?-

This depends a lot on what you want. I need to go soon otherwise I'd elaborate.

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My applications are mostly business applications, photo editting, web surfing and burning CDs. I rarely play games. (Okay, The Sims is an occasional abuse.;))

AMD Duron 600MHz @ 900MHz
Cooler Master DP5-6H11 Heatsink/Fan
Abit mobo
NEC KT7 128MB PC-133 Cas 2 DIMM
Western Digital 20.5GB, ATA/66, 7200rpm (Primary Master)
Shuttle 50X CD ROM, IDE (Secondary Master)
Pine 4X 4X 24X CD-RW, IDE (Primary Slave)
CL Graphics Blaster TNT2 Ultra 32MB, AGP 2x, 218.4MHz/200.5MHz
CL SoundBlaster Live Value! Sound Card
SMC Ethernet 10/100 Mbps NIC, PCI
US Robotics 56K V.90 modem ISA w/voice
Fujitsu? Port Speed? External DSL Modem
Alps 1.44MB floppy
Enlight 7237 Mid-Tower w/300Watt P/S
In addition to the 80mm P / S fan blowing, I: 9,775,031), 80mm Case Fan blow, front
1 lower) 80mm Case Fan blowing, upper rear spoiler (under P / S)
Microsoft Keyboard
Logitech ergonomic Cordless Mouseman Wheel
Operating System: Windows 2000 Professional

I'd put another 128MB of RAM in that system as priority 1.

If you don't play games your TNT2 is probably ok speedwise, you might want to consider a Matrox G400/450, they have superior 2D and some fun features like 2 Monitors. If you think you want some games try a GeForce 2MX, not as good as the Matrox for 2D, but it also has 2 monitors, albiet less mature support for it, but the GF2MX has much better gaming support.

Do you see this new tool bar? I am going to play!!Texthello

This is really cool

Text (http://{$MySite}/reply.cfm?catid=27&amp;threadid=243254&amp;messid=1663300)

in any order, the other parts are fine

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I have none of that, just wondering if it is needed or if its just something extra?

Take the red sticker off… That is cover the PCTC(phase-change-thermal compound). You can either use that(easier to use) or scrape it off and put on a quality thermal compound.

Mike

P.S. What is up with the attitude?

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