WRT54G, WEP128, V3.0, works wonderfully wired.

Laptop 1: HP running WPC55AG, A / G card. Works great wirelessly without security.

Laptop 2 HP running WPC54G, G-map. Works great wireless without security.

If security is enabled, both laptops are unable to connect. Laptop 2 is me, and utility, it shows the network name (SSID hidden), but not see it as connected, and says unable to connect to access point.

Laptop 1 running XP Home SP2, and problems with randomly too long to load Google, and other things when security is enabled. Without security, the breeze through.

Upgraded firmware 4.20.7, SES, and how I work? Click on the SES button on the outside, or setup, and simply to use WPA security on your laptop?

Please help!

* Posted Niks just for fun. If I get banned, Nik, I will haunt you for the next 12.42 years *

Goto command line, type in "ipconfig /all" and carefully inspect the output for the MAC address of your wifi card (not the LAN controller).

The main problem in the OP complains seems to be the "being all over the place" phenomenon rather than to take it one-step at the time.

Spot on. Pick a target, and add, step by step layers until you either a) loose reliable connection or b) reach your target.

WPA-AES is the ideal target. If a card has trouble doing WPA-AES with SSID broadcast off, the card sucks

One of the test cases for Cisco Compatible Extenstions (logo program for wireless cards).

Although, if you can hit WPA-AES with SSID on, but not off, then that is pretty good. WPA-AES w/SSID is better then WPA w/ssid off.

However, there is No point to use WEP when the WRT54G with the latest firmware has WPA-AES.

When you use WPA-AES, playing with SSID is useless. Leave On to broadcast as it should be.

The main problem in the OP complains seems to be the "being all over the place" phenomenon rather than to take it one-step at the time.

May be this can Help.

Link: Wireless – Basic Configuration. (http://www.ezlan.net/Wireless_Config.html)

Link:Wireless Security for the Home User. (http://www.ezlan.net/Wireless_Security.html)

:sun:

Not saying that it's going to fix the issue, but non-broadcasted SSID, MAC filtering, and at least WEP security are the bare minimum for secure wireless. Like I said in OT, I'll check this tomorrow or something.

Turn on MAC filtering and make sure you enter the MAC addresses that you want to be able to connect (from the wireless cards in the other computers and so forth).

WEP key is identical in all machines, so is the passphrase. SSID is the only one around, as none of the neighbors have wifi.

BTW: Thanks Nik. :beer:

Turn on MAC filtering and make sure you enter the MAC addresses that you want to be able to connect (from the wireless cards in the other computers and so forth).

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Can anyone help?

First, your 802.11 signal is fine. Your new wireless g router is compatible with 802.11a/b/g so the only thing it wouldn't work with is the new wireless N signals, but in that case it just wouldn't work at all.

Second, if your router has antennas which I think it does try repositioning them several times and see if it has any effect. It probably won't but this is the easiest thing to test first.

Lastly, log in to your router by typing http://192.168.1.1/ into your browser. If you have setup a user and password, enter that. If not the default user is nothing and default password is admin. Once in, look around the wireless settings and see if it allows you to change the "channel" of the signal. Sometimes by changing the channel you will avoid interference from other wireless signals in the area and your problems will magically disappear. I can't remember if my linksys g router had this option or not.

Other than that you may be forced to doing lots of research online, I have had to do it in the past and these things worked for me.

Many Internet Cable Providers use the MAC number of your computer's NIC (Network Card) as a mean of authentication (Password).

Since a Router comes with his own MAC number you ISP thinks that someone is Stealing Signal and disconnect. However, all current Cable/DSL Routers provides a menu entry that will allow you to Clone the MAC number of the Registered NIC. Thus the MAC number of the main computer's NIC becomes the MAC number of the Router.

Q: What MAC number I should Use?

Re: The one of the computer that works well when it is connected directly to the Cable Modem.

Q: I heard about MAC trucks, but do not know how to find Network Card MAC?

Re: Download this free Proggie, unzip and Run (nothing to install). Wait a little and it will tell you these little things that are important to Local Network (including the MAC number).

Link to: TCP Network View (http://gorlach.etype.net/download/TCPNV.ZIP)

Re: How to Clone the MAC number to my Router.

Q: Unfortunately I do not have the manual of all Routers that are out there. You will have to read your Router?s manual.

:thumbsup:

How would I know if I cloned the MAC correctly?

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Anyways, Im looking for something to help my wireless network. I have a Linksys wireless router (802.11b) and it does not exceed 15 feet (clear vision in my house) without significant loss of reception. So yes, I can sit in 3 places where I can actually use my laptop. Sometimes when I stand up or if someone is in between the laptop and the hub (or even if I close the door!) The signal drops like crazy!

Im looking for a relatively cheap (u003c € 100) wireless access point that I can plug into my Linksys wireless network to half that hopefully will reach everywhere in my little house to create. Can someone toss around some good brands? Thanks!

Peter

Range expanders are "supposed" to help, but in my experience they are useless.

AP's are the way to go. THe one that you have chosen is very reliable and efficient. At work, we have wireless access through a 1000 sq ft area, with 4 Cisco AP's. They're great.

WEP is On?

It is hard to call. If I was in this situation I will not get a booster, but rather put a second AP connected to the first one with 20? CAT5, and pending on the envioroment put it down the hall to get better coverage.

BTW, if the Filing cabinet is Metal try to put the Wireless Router on something else and see if it makes a difference.

FWIW YMMV.

shelbY

What is your Wireless Client?

Where the Router is positioned?

I'm running Cisco Aironet 350 wirelss card w/ built-in Windows XP wireless networking. With either software, the signal seems to be the same.

I also have the Linksys wireless card and have used both the Linksys software and Windows XP.

All 4 combinations above all have the same horrible results.

My wireless client is positioned in the middle of the house in between rooms. In fact, it's outside my room door about 15ft away. At first I Thought it was my 2.4ghz cordless phones, but after I unplugged and removed batteries out of all of them, I have the same problem.

EDIT: Wirelss hub is also elevated, sitting on a stand on top of a filing cabinet.

I just saw the Linksys wireless signal booster for around $85 on Newegg, its a piggyback to my current one… Not sure if i should get that one or a Dlink wireless access point and connect it to the Linksys… Both are fearce competitors

Thanks!

What is your Wireless Client?

Where the Router is positioned?

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Don't do that. Just find good drivers from Cisco or Aironet for the card.

He's probably better off going out and picking up a Linksys card …

Most likely the card he has is an OEM from Aironet/Cisco — I have two old Xircom (Cisco OEM) cards I used in the boys old machines (X20s) — and while I could get the driver to function (pass data) it didn't have the hooks to let XP know whether the network was connected — so the icon in the system tray always said no network — but it worked fine — it was just a nuisance ….

Ultimately, the real issue is the drivers never got updated after the acquisition — I could never find an XP driver for the card — and even e-mailed the VP of Engineering a few times — it wasn't an Intel priority to develop new drivers for the Cisco card — instead they kept all the man power on building Intel things …. so your guy might be able to find drivers on the Cisco site that can help — sadly, I couldn't a year or so ago when I looked — and I eventually gave up …. But the Xircom card should run just fine on Aironet drivers …..

I know it doesn't help — but the Linksys cards aren't expensive — and now they are Cisco — so I would go with them ….

Sorry I couldn't help ….
D.

The cards aren't junk. Xircom was the best. The problem is, there have been no updated drivers since the acquisition of Xircom by Intel.

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Now that was about 3 hours of work. you owe me 660 dollars.

Please PM me the address and contact for invoicing.

:Q

Is that what you normally charge? I need to ditch this small company Systems Admin gig.

Now that was about 3 hours of work. you owe me 660 dollars.

Please PM me the address and contact for invoicing.

Sure, just call me… 555-1234.

Really, thanks again.

Now that was about 3 hours of work. you owe me 660 dollars.

Please PM me the address and contact for invoicing.

On my router, I put 192.168.2.0 as the destination IP and 192.168.0.254 as the gateway (I assigned 192.168.0.254 to the IP for the VPN). Switched all the 3.X ips to 0.X ips and now everything is working great. The VPN connection works perfectly and the printers & file sharing are working again.

I'm guesing that this is exactly what you were telling me to do too.

Thanks again for your help Spidey.

the internal address of the 3002 should be a 192.168.1.0 address (since it is attached to the linksys)

so make sure what linksys calls gateway (next hop) is pointing to the internal address of the 3002.

Linksys Routes Config Page (http://flickr.com/photos/63401767@N00/127226599/)

I've used 192.168.2.4 as the name.

Destination IP is 192.168.2.4
mask is 255.255.255.0
Gateway is 192.168.3.1
Interface is LAN/WIRELESS

I get the error: "Gateway not directly reachable through that interface"

The VPN box is hooked up to the wireless router via a LAN port.

What am I missing?

Thanks.

morkman

then add a route on the linksys box for that network, its next hop will be the internal address of the VPN box.

It worked before because you had an invalid configuration. But the VPN box had a route to the 192.168.1.0 network and routed it out its interface with a 192.168.1. address.

The VPN client machines use 192.168.3.X ip's, 255.255.255.0 mask and 192.168.3.1 gateway.

The rest of the network uses 192.168.0.X ip's, 255.255.255.0 mask and 192.168.0.1 gateway.

The IP for the hq server is 192.168.2.4.

What you're doing is called multi-netting and can lead to all sorts of weird problems and is generally considered "a very bad idea"

But it worked…

3) add routes on the linksys router for the remote subnets you need to reach at HQ

So, I would add a route to 192.168.2.4?

Thanks for your help, Spidey.

If you want to get it working add a route to the 3002 for 192.168.0.0 and point it to it's ethernet interface.

What are the masks and default gateways for the client machines?

What you're doing is called multi-netting and can lead to all sorts of weird problems and is generally considered "a very bad idea"

What you could do…

1) get all machines on the same subnet
2) plug new DSL line into 3002, then plug 3002 into linksys router
3) add routes on the linksys router for the remote subnets you need to reach at HQ

But that wouldn't work for my network, since the client access software for the VPN requires that all TCP/IP traffic to flow through the VPN router. If I reconfigured all my pc's to use the 3.X ip, then all that Internet traffic would be flowing through the VPN hardware (defeating the purpose of the 2nd DSL connection).

Thanks.

morkman

All machines need to be in the same IP subnet. They could all be 192.168.3.0 or 192.168.1.0. But NOT both.

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Question However, we must set up wireless. I have looked at the Linksys wireless router (http://www.linksys.com/Products/product.asp?grid=23u0026prid=173). Will it work for us?

Im guess I will either have this wireless USB network adapter (http://www.buy.com/retail/computers/product.asp?loc=10101u0026sku=10273696) or wireless LAN PCI card. (Http: / / www.buy.com/retail/computers/product.asp?loc=10101u0026sku=10273696), no? What do you recommend, the PCI or USB? Here are my specs

Last:

Our houses are 150 meters away from each other with a clear vision of each others computer office. Unless some other form of electrical interference or the weather, this router and wireless cards should work, right?

Im very experienced in networking, but I never did what you wireless see.

Thank you!

Jason

For example, the Standards specifications for the TRENDnet TEW-633GR list the following:
———-
Wireless: IEEE 802.11b, IEEE 802.11g, IEEE 802.11n (draft 2.0), IEEE 802.11e QoS
———-

This product is compatible with wireless standards 802.11b, 802.11g, and 802.11n. This is an example of a product that will do what you want. Find a product with the same specs and you'll be in business.

Altho I should have known from the company name, eh?

The Orinoco RG series can be set up in several "modes"
If you go with an RG-1×00, and decide to use the Java installer, you'll want to choose "Infrastructure" mode.

If you go with an RG-1×00 series, and you decide to "upgrade" it to an AP-500, then the device will no longer support routing functions…but will support nifty stuff like RADIUS authentication (and a host of other enterprise-level features).

In case of a Laptop get Wireless PCMCIA, USB will work, but it is not comfortable to carry.

BTW, thanks for the Dixiesys tip.

I have few accounts with Gary, but I need more.

-No wireless router needed, as the PC that is connected to the satellite is already doing this through ICS or some other means.

-The WAP is simply a means for other PC's to connect to the host computer. Each PC needs its own USB Wireless Client Card, which connect via wireless transmission to the RG-1100 Broadband Gateway, which is connected to the host PC.

Thanks for your help…Damn, i hate living in the sticks – It'd be much easier with a router connected to a DSL or Cable line.

However, Satellite Internet connection works differently from DSL or Cable, thus the info in the links is not a direct solution to your setting, use it for general orientation.

AnandTech – FAQ . Basic Options for Internet Connection Sharing (http://www.{$MySite}/guides/viewfaq.html?i=105)

AanadTech – FAQ. Hubs, routers, switches, DSL, LANs, WANs…? (http://www.{$MySite}/guides/viewfaq.html?i=48)

AnandTech – FAQ. What do I need for wireless networking? (http://www.{$MySite}/guides/viewfaq.html?i=122)

The way it is described on the link that you provided. The sharing is done by using the method of two NICs; (in your case USB from the Satellite, and additional NIC in the host computer) connection goes to the host computer that is probably acting as a Software NAT Router. This computer has to be on all the time, for you to get connected.

The transfer from the host to the rest of the network is a regular Ethernet transfer through CAT5 or Wireless Access Point.

That means NO Router for you, do not buy a Wireless Cable/DSL Router. You need an Access point connected to the Host Computer, or to port on a switch that is connected to the Host. For your Desktop use a USB Wireless Client Card.

Using regular Entry Level hardware to cover a distance of 150? is questionable.

I would buy the top of the Entry Level Access Point / Client Card.

Example: Broadband Gateway RG-1100/USB Gold Desktop (http://www.provantage.com/scripts/go.dll/-s/vager00c)

Review here: ORiNOCO Wireless Home & Small Office Networking Kit (featuring RG-1100 Broadband Gateway) (http://www.80211-planet.com/reviews/AP/article/0,4000,10649_1008871,00.html)

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