Unplug my CDRW and then no POST screen!? [spare parts] [crappy]

Q: ok, so I work as a tech, granted, Im still learning, but this is a first for me, and the problem happens on my box .

i had a old CDRW drive that was dying, so I picked up a new from our shop. Well, the old drive refuses to let go. If I unplug my computer, just give me a post screen. I tried to unplug the CDRW drive back in, and closure of IDE channel, the bios but still same result. I am now with the power issues (I think) as a result of having too many devices connected, and now i cannot afford a new diet. Has anyone ever run into these problems? Unplug an IDE device, then no post screen? Unless my mb does not (it is an asus, dont know what model #) I would at least still able to access the bios setting up a new config. maybe something simple that Ive managed to look so any ideas would be appreciated.: confused:


Best Answer: You don't say how old the computer is.

I've seen this happen to older computers. The operative theme is not Pentium vs Pentium II vs Pentium III, but rather 5 to 8 years old. For whatever reason, as the computer ages, at some point, the IDE controller stops being able to auto-detect the IDE drives. When this happens the computer will just sit there in mid-boot and wait for what seems like forever….often 5 to 10 minutes and sometimes even longer….before suddenly noticing what drives are attached and booting up. Often this "wait" period can be shortened by pushing the reset button on the front of the computer and letting it start over from a warm boot. And then it will boot right up.

If you are comfortable working with computer hardware then the solution won't be quite so daunting.

Shutdown your computer and turn it off. Open the case and remove the hard drives. Somewhere on the outside of the hard drive will be documentation for the hard drive specifications, e.g. 16 heads 1024 cylinders, etc. Write this down for each (if you have more than one) hard drive. Reinstall the hard drive(s), close the computer's case, plug it in, and turn it on.

As the computer starts to boot, hit the appropriate key to enter the hardware setup (CMOS). On some computers its the Del key, on others its the F2. Some its the F10, and still others maybe be different. Sometimes the key is listed on the screen as it boots, but others its not. Your computer's manual should tell you what key to press. Otherwise, try them all.

Once in the CMOS, find the screen (I'm sorry, its different for almost every computer) that lets you configure your IDE hard drives. Turn off the Auto-Detect and enter the drive parameters that you wrote down a few minutes earlier.

Save your CMOS changes (Usually F10) and exit. Reboot your computer.

If it fails to boot, go back and check your settings. Verify that you entered the drive parameters correctly. Verify that there weren't two sets of parameters on your drive and you wrote down the wrong one. Some drives have different configurations for different installations. You need to choose correctly.

Anyway, once you have gotten through this, the issue of the blank screen for 10 minutes during boot should resolve itself.

Good luck.


Re:self solving post. too funny.

Re:This is Matt's buddy, you left this forum up on my computer, so I decided to reply while drinking a beer…

The only logical explaination I can put together from all this is that you need a new power supply. For some reason or another, the lack of a load on that particular power cable is causing the internals of your PSU to provide an invalid voltage to your MB, thus causing it to avoid fully booting in attempt to protect itself.

I'd also like to agree and disagree with guy on the "too much power" issue. Sure, most people have no clue how much power their computer really needs, but that is exactly why you SHOULD buy a too-big power supply. Too-big can't hurt, EVER, but too small and you find yourself having to buy another when you realize that new graphics card you want requires a 400w. I say, be smart, spend the extra 20 bucks, and buy a nice big PSU. (Oh and a quality one at that. I'm sure the wattage rating doesn't tell the whole story.)


Re:ok, i tried pulling the ide cable, and now the computer will only boot if the cdrw drive has power, even if the ide cable is disconnected. what now?

Re:The problem is most people don?t understand how much power their PC is using and buy way too much power supply. Its good too remember that a power supply maker wants you to buy the ?high power? unit because they make more money. The real question is do you need it? You may think you need a 500watt unit but judging from the specs you posted that much power would be overkill. So like I said unless you think you will use a new PSU for an upcoming computer just save your money.

Re:the new cdrw drive i installed as the secondary master, the old drive is the secondary slave, so if disconnected, the system should boot fine. i'll try the new cable idea tonight though

Re:shot in the dark (I've been skimming so forgive)..

Your CDRW is the master on a channel that has both a master and a slave??

Can't have just a slave.


Re:If you do decide to try a new powersupply, these are some great deals. (oh, and I disagree with the "don't get a powersupply that's more than you need" comment)

Seasonic 430 watt (http://www.ewiz.com/detail.php?name=PS-S12-430) $75

XClio 450 watt (http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-189-003&depa=1) $53

Both of those would handle powerfully upgraded new systems.

Seasonic makes very quiet and efficient powersupplies. I have a 430 right now. XClio is made by channelwell, the same company that makes Antecs.


Re:Try a new ribbon cable see if that helps. I have had IDE bus issues because of bad cables.

Re:sorry to post 8 million times in a row :-)

i figured out the hard drive thing is actually (mostly anyway) being caused by a loose power connection on the drive, if the power cable is bumped even slightly, it cuts the power out temporarly.

also figured out that the computer will boot up without the ide cable atteched to the "cdrw drive from hell", just the power cable is required for my mobo to get goin.

can it get wierder?


Re:playing with the computer a bit more tonight…. the bios reports that the 12v channel is coming in at 11.31v, but i'm not sure what the voltage was when i first installed the PSU.

still dont know how this would prevent me from removing the cdrw drive.


Re:ok, here's the specs….

www.suburbanbeats.net/img/specs.JPG


Re:well, primarily, i'm just trying to figure out why i cant simply unplug my old cdrw drive from the mb and just live happily ever after. the power issue may be resolved from simply removing the extra drive.

as far as the 500w psu goes, i'm planning on upgrading major components in the next 6 months or so, so it would definately be put to use towards some nice hi end processors. i'm going to go download the recommended program so you guys can take a look at my specs, i should post again in 20 min or so


Re:BTW If you can list more in depth specs of your current rig that would be nice. Try downloading CPU 330 from H-Oda. That will give you in depth specs on your CPU and Mainboard. If this is a power issue than we can use that information to direct you to a better PSU choice for your system.

Re:Oops hit the ?quick reply? button. I just want to say don?t go out and buy a 500 Watt power supply for your computer that is overkill. 500 watt PSUs are for high-end gaming rigs or computers with much more components than yours (and very power hungry components. High-end video boards multiple hard discs a highly overclocked CPU etc.)
I cant stress it enough don?t buy too much PSU for your rig. Unless you plan on using it in a new rig later. Otherwise there are plenty of good 300-350 Watt PSU from solid names like Antec. If you plan on using you current system much longer buy a 350 Watt Antec unit.

Re:yes, the computer will work when the cdrw drive is plugged back in, however, since adding the new cdrw drive, my hard drive will power down randomly and lock my box up.

I believe i did try resetting the cmos (take the battery out) and still had the same issue.
on that note, i assume that if i do take the battery out, that on the next boot up i should leave the old cdrw drive out, and see if it posts, right? (wouldnt make sense to do otherwise, but im lost )

the cdrw drive was on its own channel, now i have it running as the secondary slave. (the new drive being the secondary master)

the power supply i have in my computer is a 300watt (not sure of the brand, any suggestions on some decent 500 watts for under $100 would be cool). on the power supply are the following;
mb
1 hd
2 cdrw's
mouse and keyboard (duh)
1 usb device (self powered hp printer)
high end sound card (m-audio) w/ breakout box

i've had this setup for quite a while, the only new additions are the printer and the new cdrw drive. as far as my hd locking up, i tried turning the printer off when not in use, but i still get lockups and nasty errors on reboot (invalid sys disk, things like that)


Re:Welcome to AT.

So it works when the cdrw is plugged back in still, or it doesn't work at all anymore?

Did you try resetting CMOS?

Was it on its own on the IDE channel or do you have anything else hooked up on the cable?

What's your powersupply/other specs? How many devices to you have plugged in?


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