Q: I thought about wireless speed and cost, but tend to make me a wired network. I want to share and share my DSL connection file, which is currently in the PC on the second floor of the house. The other PC in the basement, but I can not think of ways to reduce the network efficiently. There are probably barriers in the walls that would block the cable from being right back down right?
How about taking the cable out? There would be no more problems when I did this?
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Re:You can also try going outside. You should be able to get several years out of the cable before having to replace it. For aesthetic purposes I would do the interior "dragging". Sometimes you may have to cut a small hole at the floor of the wall to assist in fishing the cable. You can then patch it up.
A PIA while doing it but worth it in the end. The pain of the install is soon overwhelmed by the joy of not having to look at ugly wires everywhere.
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Re:I checked the heating vents and itd be too much of a hassle to drop it in there and dismantle the pipes in the basement to pull the wire out. Im probably gonna have to drill some holes through the floors then to make this work. Im also going to try to put face plates on the jacks so that I dont just have holes in the walls.
Thanks for the help everyone
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Re:Running it through heating-vents or A/C return areas requires that you use plenum cable, ja. Plenum-rated cable's not guaranteed to be non-toxic when it burns, but it is guaranteed not to give off opaque smoke (so as not to conceal exits, signs, fire-route posters, etc). The only cable that doesn't give off toxic smoke when it burns is Low-Smoke, Zero Halogen (LSZH/LS0H) cable, which is even more expensive than plenum-rated and is rather difficult to acquire.
Even if you're not running cable through air ducts, you're still obligated by safety codes to use "riser cable" if you want to go between floors. This is generally not much different than general-purpose UTP and only slightly more expensive.
And NEVER, EVER run unshielded cable outside your house (except for the Avaya-brand cable guy speaks of). In a thunderstorm, UTP acts like a lightning rod.
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Re:Originally posted by: guy
I have a heating vent in the floor of my room, but Im concerned about the hot air in the wintertime. How much heat can the cables withstand before they start to malfunction (or melt for that matter
).
This is a good sugestion…I'll have to look into that.
Sohcrates, Im relatively sure I dont wanna go wireless. Security, cost, expansion possibilities, etc all make leaves a wired at an advantage (for me anyway)
guy, what exactly is fish-tape work?
That is why you would get "plenum" rated cables for running cables in heat ducts. The jacketing on regular cat5 gives off toxic fumes when it melts. The plenum cable is designed to NOT kill you if it does melt.
Dan
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Re:Blueprints for residences are usually held by the architect and/or the builder. Town halls don't have them.
If it's a multi-unit dwelling, the town might have them, and you could also check with the local Fire Department. Same thing for commerical/industrial locations.
I got lucky and used the old co-ax that was originally put in to share a roof-top antenna. Much easier than fishing. Follow the water supply pipes for the second floor bathroom–shouldn't be too hard to find. Drill a few holes, send down a string w/ a weight on it, and fish from the bottom. Usually the holes around the water supply/waste lines have enough extra space to feed a cat-5 cable through, so not even extra drilling.
Good luck!
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Re:have you ever considered drilling a hole in the floor from one side to the other? Also i think most cat5 cabiling can handle 75C.
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Re:Originally posted by: guy
[iwhat exactly is fish-tape work?
basically, kinda like sticking a big metal coat hanger into the wall and "fishing" around for the wire in hopes to run it through tight areas
thanks for the clarification.
BTW, does anone know where I can find blueprints for my house and how much they would cost to take a looksee at them? would they have them at the town hall or something?
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Re:[iwhat exactly is fish-tape work?
basically, kinda like sticking a big metal coat hanger into the wall and "fishing" around for the wire in hopes to run it through tight areas
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Re:Originally posted by: guy
Have you considered trying to run it through your heating vents? We have cold air returns in my house that go straight to the basement. That is how I ran my cable. Worked great.
I have a heating vent in the floor of my room, but Im concerned about the hot air in the wintertime. How much heat can the cables withstand before they start to malfunction (or melt for that matter
).
This is a good sugestion…I'll have to look into that.
Sohcrates, Im relatively sure I dont wanna go wireless. Security, cost, expansion possibilities, etc all make leaves a wired at an advantage (for me anyway)
guy, what exactly is fish-tape work?
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Re:Have you considered trying to run it through your heating vents? We have cold air returns in my house that go straight to the basement. That is how I ran my cable. Worked great.
Re:There isn't any such thing as "Heavy Duty" UTP. With one (expensive) exception *, it's all rated for indoor use only. Plenum cable is also NOT an option, it has nothing in it's composition that would make it any more suitable for exterior use.
Conduit, properly installed and grounded, is an option, but you should use the largest possible diameter to prevent the conduit from converting your UTP/Cat5/5e into "shielded" (proximity to the metal casing changes the cable's characteristics).
Usually, the best "express" route to the basement is next to the vent stack, second to that is the regular plumbing.
After that, it's pretty much drilling through floors/headers and fish-tape work.
*Avaya (formerly Lucent) makes an exterior grade UTP, Cat5 only, Data only, and must be used with the recommended entrance protection (also made by Avaya specifically for this cable / application).
Good Luck
Scott
Re:I've seen people drop cables down the side of their house before…might wanna look for a heavy duty cat5 though.
Not sure how you'd get it out your second floor or whatever, but easiest way to get it back into the basement is usually via the laundry duct (where the dryer expels it's heat).
Of course, it's not gonna look pretty.
You *sure* you don't wanna go wireless??
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